Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Once de septiembre, or 9/11

Eleven years? It's very strange being out of the country on this infamous date in US history. Here it's a day like any other. I had class and I met my language exchange partner today.

The only concrete reminder for me of what this date means to my country of origin is my facebook news feed, where many of my friends have posted statuses promising to remember, to never forget this date.

Eleven years. Makes me wonder where we'll be 10, 20, 30 years from now.

Today is also the birthday of one of my host sisters's boyfriend. A few days ago he apologized for the date of his birthday. I didn't understand why at first until he explained to his girlfriend that it's a bad day for Americans. Oh. Right. It's also a bad day for Chileans too, but that's a blog for another time and place.

The world is watching the US. Being abroad makes more aware of that than ever. Makes me glad I've studied a lot of political science.

Monday, September 10, 2012

Weather like San Francisco? Lies.

San Sebastian's weather is often compared to San Francisco's. I don't believe it. San Sebastian is far more humid and warmer than San Francisco ever is. When I left for school at 10 this morning, it was overcast, muggy and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Now it's 7 pm, 75 degrees, still muggy and really sunny. My weather app tells me there's a 50% chance of thunderstorms tonight. And as I write this, clouds are rolling in. This is definitely not San Francisco weather. When it's around 70 degrees, San Franciscans panic and crowd every beach and ice cream parlor in town and talk about global warming. San Sebastians? Well, they take a siesta. No big deal.

At least the warmer weather means you can actually enjoy going to the beach regularly without worrying about frostbite. Kidding about the frostbite. The beaches here in San Sebastian are just too fantastic not to enjoy while you can. Apparently there's only a month left of beach weather. Got to enjoy it as much as possible.

Update: 7:23 pm. Heard first crack of thunder. Sky is a strange yellow-grey color. No rain yet but I'm quite sure it's coming. Glad I'm not going to be out in that.

Update: 7:30 pm. Epic downpour with thunder and lightning. Glad I closed my window. There's a bit of wind too.

Update: 7:40pm. Saw a rainbow that ended right over Real Sociedad's stadium :)

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Un cheeseburger y gazpacho, por favor

I had a cheeseburger and gazpacho for dinner tonight. Somehow this amuses me greatly. They were both really tasty. It occurs to me also that this is the first hamburger I've had in over two years. Funny how that works.

Sundays here are very tranquil. In Spanish, calm is either calma or tranquilo, but everyone seems to say tranquilo. It works here with the peaceful lifestyle. Everyone goes to beach. Everyone goes out with friends to enjoy life. Everyone here is pretty tranquilo. I like it. I'm tranquila too. It's a nice change from the almost frantic American way of life. Coffee to go is almost unheard of here. It's only in chains and touristy areas. It's far more common to see people smoking on the go rather than drinking coffee, although you also see people outside just smoking, but that may just be because Spain passed a law making it illegal to smoke inside. Either way, I feel it's more common in the US to see people drinking coffee on the go but stopping to smoke, whereas here the reverse is true. I imagine the Europeans have to do less laundry because of spilled coffee than Americans do.

Today we had lunch outside on the terrace. For starters we ate a kind of potato salad with hard boiled eggs, olives and white asparagus called ensalada rusa, or Russian salad. Not entirely sure what makes it Russian. The main course was a delicious chicken and gravy dish. My host mom is a fantastic cook. No wonder most of her children are close enough to come over for meals.

Also, since we were eating outside, bugs are always present. My host brother's adorable tiny daughter was afraid of the wasps so he just took his napkin and used it to whack the wasps away with a flick of the wrist. No big deal. No one else seemed to notice so I guess this is pretty commonplace. I tried not to laugh. Americans seem to be so terrified of insects and few brave souls would flick away a couple of wasps with a napkin and then just carry on as if nothing happened.

Skyped with my family today for the first time since I left almost two weeks ago. I got to see all of them before their Internet connection cut out. Hopefully that can be fixed soon so I can communicate with them faster than by email, Facebook and blog.

Tomorrow my first full week of school starts. I start work tomorrow too. Should be an interesting week.

Random first impressions

It's weird to think I've been here in San Sebastian for a week now. I've been gone from the US for maybe two weeks? Already it seems like my life in the States was years ago. I'm adjusting decently well to life here in Spain. Food is so yummy and the place is so beautiful. I haven't quite adjusted my sleep schedule yet. It's not jet lag. It's just that I'm normally a morning person so I wake up horrendously early and then stay in bed because there's nothing to do in the morning. Shops don't open until 10am and I don't start class until 11 am.

I found out that one of the guys in my program is also from my hometown. We both noted how weird it is to tell each other that I went to Wash and he went to S.I. Out of the context of our city, no one really knows what those abbreviations mean. Back home, everyone does. Here, it just seems so out of place. Distant. Removed.

On a similar note, I always pick up on the people speaking English. It's almost funny hearing it outside of hanging out with other Americans. I live with a Spanish family so I don't hear English unless I'm out with friends.

People in touristy areas speak English, especially if they are young. If you stumble on Spanish, they'll correct you, like in the restaurant I had dinner in last night. I also went shopping and paid with my credit card. Once the cashier asked for my ID and saw it was from California she just switched to English even though my Spanish was perfectly passable up to that point. Oh well.

It's interesting just to sit and take everything in. I can sit on a bench in a public place by myself while I'm waiting for a friend and no one will bother me or even really look twice at me. It gives me nice time to just look at everything. I love looking at the fashions and the people and the pets and everything. It's quite common to see people on bikes with a surfboard under one arm. It's quite normal to see young children out with their parents after 11pm. It's not very common to see dogs on leashes because they are so well behaved.

Before I left I had an assignment from my pre study abroad class where we had to pretend we were Martians observing earthling culture. I feel a bit like that every time I take the bus. I'm used to city buses. It's not terribly different. My host parents got me a bus card, which functions similarly to my bus card back home. You go in the front door, put your card in the reader, wait for the green light, take it and go find a seat or place to stand. After a few rides, I began to notice where the seats reserved for the elderly, disabled or pregnant are. (that's another thing! I swear I've seen more babies in a week here than I do in a month back in the States.) Some newer buses are color coded so you can see more easily which seats are reserved. There's also an area for wheelchairs and strollers that other passengers can stand in if there aren't any. Oh and waiting for the bus is an art form. You basically wait in line, except it doesn't appear to be one. You only get on the bus once everyone who was already at the bus stop when you arrived gets on. You should also stand more or less in your place in line when you are just waiting.

I also feel like people have a lot more respect for the handicapped here. Like with the seats on the bus, it appears to me that there are places in society for everyone. It's not uncommon to see handicapped cashiers here. I've also seen a bank ad where a woman who appears to be on the autism spectrum is depicted as part of the banks family. I feel like in the US we have ADA and laws to not exclude handicapped people but we don't really include them either. In the US I almost feel as if we ignore handicapped people because we don't want to be politically incorrect but we end up isolating them. Here I feel like they're far more active members of society than they are in the US. They go out with friends and family, they have jobs, and they aren't hidden away as embarrassments to the family. People here don't laugh at them or make fun of them. In fact I'd say they respect them.

I saw a man with the kind of crutches to help walk with a leg problem rather than an injury get on a crowded bus. A bunch of girls, maybe 10 years old, were sitting in the reserved seats. The man wasn't going to bother the girls so he stood. Another man on the bus went up to the girls and told them to have respect for the man with crutches. They moved and the whole bus seemed to breathe a collective sigh of relief. A fascinating look at the norms and values of a culture if I've ever seen.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Buena suerte

Having glitches with this post. Hope it works.

Sometimes it's just better to be lucky. Yesterday was my interview. Got the internship. Also learned my last name is from Navarre. Managed to miss my bus stop but still got there earlier than my, well I guess he's my boss now. I'm starting to get used to the kissing cheeks as greetings and goodbyes thing. My boss bought my coffee too. That's apparently also standard operation here.

Spent the rest of my Friday on the beach. La Playa Concha, or Shell Beach, is the most beautiful beach in the city. The water is warm (at least to me, because beaches where I come form are less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit yearround) and so salty you float. Super fun. Sun bathed after swimming for hours. Walked home in the sunset and thought, "this is the life."

Also managed to give directions to four different people in Spanish, English and even Italian. Granted they asked me how to get to places I was very familiar with (El Catedral de Buen Pastor, la Playa Concha, Amara and the main bus station) but still, I feel accomplished. I was even told by the British family I explained the bus system to that my California accent was "lovely".

My host mom is a fantastic cook. As I found out today, all the women in her family are.

Having a huge Saturday lunch with four generations of Spaniards has been pretty much the best thing I've done so far in Spain. Before that though, I went out to La Parte Vieja with my host parents and their adorable granddaughter Carlota. Apparently today is the only day of year in which they take down the tiny statue of la Madonna and you can put a coin down and make a wish. I think my host parents called her la Madonna Negra because she's made out of a black stone and Negra is the color black in Spanish. After that we went down la Avenida 31, which is the oldest street in Spain. It's the only part of San Sebastian to survive the razing of the city during the Napoleonic Wars. Now it's home to the famous Basque gastronomic societies and the best pintxos in Spain. Pinchos or pintxos, are a form of tapas, tiny yummy bar snacks. Pintxos are distinct from other tapas because they are usually served over bread. They're super delicious. the one I had today was jamon Iberico, chorizo and mushrooms  with some kind of amazing sauce and a cerveza. I highly recommend trying every type of pintxo if you are ever in San Sebastian. It will be worth the adventure.

After our tiny adventure to La Parte Vieja, we went to my host mother's older sister's house, where I got to meet more of the family. I met my host mother's mother and her sister, and my host mother's younger sister and her husband. With the three sisters, two husbands, the mother and her sister, three of my host mother's children, one boyfriend, one granddaughter and me, we had thirteen people for Saturday lunch. It was so much fun.

We started off with a type of sausage that is very typical of the Basque Country. I forget its name but it's delicious. Apparently the student who lived with this host family before me loved it so much that he bought four packages of it, put it in his dirty laundry in his suitcase and made it back to the States with it. We had those sausages with bread. After that we had bread with pâté. The next course was croquettas de jamon. Theyre yummy fried croquettes with tiny pieces of salted ham inside. We each were served two until another plate emerged from the kitchen and we were all served two more croquettas. Not even through appetizers and I was already glad I passed on my host parents' offer of more pintxos earlier. The main course was some kind of amazing dish of stewed potatoes with medallions of the most tender pork I have ever eaten. I was given what they a small portion to try. It was like three scoops but I liked it so much I asked for a little more and I got more than the original "small" portion I had been served. It was super tasty though. As is the norm here, I cleared my plate of the sauce by dipping my bread in it. Also, the red wine they served was fantastic. Desert was a cake because it will be my host sister Ana's boyfriend Alberto's birthday on Tuesday. The cake consisted a thin layer of sponge cake, a fruit filling and nata (whipped cream) on top. After that they served cookies. I had to pass. Of the thirteen people, only three passed. Everyone else had more than one cookie. Then came the customary after dinner espresso. I'm very unusual in that I take my coffee sola, without milk or sugar. Alberto insisted that if I was going to drink my coffee like that, I should have brandy in it at least. They all also insisted that I try a local liquer made from herbs. Depending on how you drink it, it either tastes like licorice or cough drops. It was really yummy once I figured out the right way to drink it.

Also, it's fascinating how after eating that much, it's near impossible to get drunk. Also, I'm beginning to wonder how everyone here is decently healthy. I have not seen a single horribly obese person. Nnot everyone is perfectly fit, but they just seem so much healthier than Americans, even with eating a ton of  bread with every meal. Maybe it's because there is only one McDonalds in all of San Sebastian's and the only reason people go there is to meet with friends and go elsewhere...


Thursday, September 6, 2012

First day of school

Yesterday was my first day of classes. Got to school on the bus perfectly fine. I took the earlier bus because I knew I would need time to find my art history class. Well, despite asking directions from one of the men who works for my program in English, I managed to go to the complete opposite side of campus. Each building, thankfully has a doorman I could ask for help. When I was super lost, I asked a doorman and he told me I was far from my class and I would have to walk all the way across campus. I just went back to my program's office and the director drew me a map. I made it to the building finally but I could not find the classroom. I asked the doorman and apparently I had to go through this dark door down a tiny hall to a door that looked like a closet. That was my classroom. Despite being at school half an hour early, I was more than half an hour late to an hour and ten minute class. Oops.

 The professor, however, didn't mind in the slightest. There was only one other student in class and it turns out she was going to do the exact same study abroad programs as I am doing. She can't do Spring in the Netherlands anymore unfortunately. My professor was very intrigued my super Basque name. While Sasha and I were talking, he was figuring out the Basque words in my last name. Apparently my surname would have originally been spelled Gartzitorena and the way I spell it now is how it is written by a Spanish speaker. Makes sense. He said it meant "Los de (la casa de) los osos articos" or "those from (the house of) the polar bears". Super cool no? He even broke it down so I could understand it. The Gartzia part is polar bear, with artz being bear and the g in front and the ia after making it an Arctic bear. The torena part is like "from the" and the house part is implied and so it's similar in that way to last names with De or Du or Von or -vich as part of them. Who knew? One goal of study abroad accomplished.

Today I have more Spanish class and my Spanish Myths and Legends class today. Of the 19 units I'm taking (with audits of course), only one three unit class is in English. That's my Basque class. Learning how to speak Basque from Spanish would be a bit difficult I imagine. Additionally, I'm  taking Arte: Del Camino Santiago a Leonardo da Vinci on Mondays and Wednesdays. Also on Wednesday night I have starting next week De Elvis a Rap: 50 años de Musica y Cultura.  I have a 9-unit, semester long Spanish course that's Monday through Thursdays. I'm going to have a very busy school schedule.

I also have an interview with the Basque Heritage Foundation tomorrow. I'm excited. I came to San Sebastian to learn about my Basque heritage. Sounds like the place for me. The work is mostly translation so I think I can handle that.

Having glitches with this blog post. If it ends up weird, I'll fix it.

Besos

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Last day of orientation

So I more or less know how to use my bus card. Made it to school ok at least. Not entirely sure my card worked. Walked from school to the Cathedral de Buen Pastor. Took the walking tour that my program arranged. Didn't quite know the bus system so I walked home. Wasn't too bad. I didn't get lost, which was good, especially after getting so lost in Madrid.

The next big challenge is figuring out my classes. I did place into the level I wanted, which will hopefully open up some doors for me. I really want an internship with the Basque Heritage Foundation. The work is mostly translation from Spanish to English and vice versa. What I really want though is to learn about Basque heritage. I have this very, very Basque last name but I know so little about the Basque people. If I get this internship, it could be a very good opportunity.

Oh and I totally got stopped on the street this morning by a guy in a vest with a petition. Considering how far from home I am, I totally pulled the "oh sorry. I'm an American" card. I may or may not support the cause but I don't think my signature would do any good. It didn't seem to be an international organization. I wonder how often that happens...

Tomorrow classes start. I'm taking an art history class and a Spanish class tomorrow. Most of the classes I would like to take are on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The class I'm most excited to take doesn't start until the 11th. I can't wait to take Basque Language and Culture. That's really why I'm here in San Sebastian.